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The Anna Marie Handbag

The Anna Marie handbag

Click here if you would like to purchase the pattern in PDF format, WITHOUT ads and sent to you by email.

This handbag is 25x36x10cm or 9.8×14.1x4inch big


Yarn: medium weight (4) yarn suitable for handbags and a size 2.5mm crochet hook in:

  • Multicolored yarn (455-475m/500-520yd)
  • White (50-75m/55-82yd)

**I used this mixed color yarn: 1pcs 100g/ball 6 Strands Dyed Milk Cotton Children’s Yarn Color Wool Coarse Wool Diy Hand Knitting Crochet Yarn| | – AliExpress

**And this white yarn: Wholesale Price High Quality Soft Warm Diy Milk Cotton Threads Baby Wool For Hand Knitting Crochet Yarn 50 Grams/pc – Yarn – AliExpress

Crochet hook: size 2.5mm (the packaging says 4mm but I like my bags to not have holes and be a bit firm so I used a size 2.5mm instead of a 4mm hook)

Lining: 1m/yd of cotton (you can use a different kind of fabric)

Eva foam sheet: 2mm thick – 35x15cm/14x6inch is enough

Tapestry needle – scissors – pencil – sewing needle – sewing thread (chose a color that goes with your crochet yarn) – ruler – tape measure – sewing pins


Sewing machine (if you have one. If you don’t, you’ll need to sew by hand)

Gauge: 5x5cm/2x2inc = 9sc x 11 rows (single crochet back and forth)

Abbreviations: (click on the stitch name to go to a tutorial about that stitch)

Click here to learn more about how to read a crochet pattern and the rows in a pattern.

The color of yarn you are to use is mentioned at the end of the row. When nothing is mentioned, use the same color as the previous row.

This pattern is FREE but FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. You are NOT allowed to sell it, translate it, post it online, post it on social media, claim it as your own design, copy it, publish it, distribute it, post on Facebook/… in any way or form without my permission!! Not even a part of it! This is a copyrighted pattern so please respect the law!

You are allowed to sell the finish item (the handbag) BUT NOT THE PATTERN ITSELF OF COURSE

If someone asks you for the pattern, DO NOT PRINT IT AND GIVE IT TO THAT PERSON. This would be considered distributing and that is against the law. Instead send them to this website where they can use the pattern legally.


Row 1: ch18 with multicolored yarn

Row 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch, ch1 and turn (17)

Row 3-53: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (17)

Row 54: sc all around the piece and make 2 extra sc in every corner (the total should then be 148sc)

Row 55: sc all around again but this time in back loops only

  • work in continuous rows now

Row 56: ch4 and then make a whole row of star stitches. Click here to go to a tutorial about the star stitch. The tutorial includes a video and clear pictures with step by step instructions.

  • at the end of the row you need to connect to the first stitch with a sl st. This sl st does NOT count as a stitch. You are to start the next row in the very same stitch in which you just made a sl st. You are to do this after EVERY ROW you’ve made till the last row of the bag.
  • Connecting this way will create a small gap between the first and last star stitches. The same will happen in every star stitch row. At the end, when you’ve finished crocheting the main part of the back, you will be sewing this gaps closed. This needs to be done on the inside of the bag, NOT the outside.

Row 57: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) make 1sc in the back loops of every star stich and chain (148)

Row 58: ch2 (does not count as a stitch) make 1hdc in every stitch (148)

Row 59: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) make 1sc in every stitch (148)

  • Repeat row 56-59 till you have a total of 87 rows (this number includes the bottom of the bag rows)

Row 88: repeat row 56

  • make 1sl st in the first stitch
  • yarn off but leave a very long tail
  • use this tail to sew the gaps between first and last star stitches of every star stitch row closed (see picture below)
The handles:

Row 1: ch131 with white

Row 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch, ch1 and turn (130)

Row 3: 1sc in every stitch, turn (do not ch1 before you turn)

Row 4: with multicolored yarn: ch4, then make a whole row of star stitches in the backloops of row 3

  • Yarn off but leave a long tail
  • Now you need to make another star stitch row like row 4 but on the other side of the bag handle (so you have a star stitch row on each side of the white strip you made
  • Yarn off but leave a long tail
  • Make the second bag handle the same way
  • Attach them to the bag about 2 inches from the side, according to the pictures below (click on the pictures to make them larger)
The lining:

Lining the bag is not mandatory. You can just leave the bag as it is without lining. I just like to line mine to protect the inside of the bag. If you wish to line yours, then you can do this the following way:

  • My pocket is 16x24cm/6.3×9.5inch big. You can of course not make the pocket or make it bigger/smaller/more than 1.
  • Make sure you add seams. My seams are 1cm wide.

Picture 1: measure the length of the bottom

Picture 2: measure the width of the bottom

Also measure the height of the bag

Picture 3: cut lining this size: LENGTH: 2x the height of the bag + 1x the width of the bottom + 2x seam width. WIDTH: 1x the length of the bottom + 1x the width of the bottom + 2x seam width

Cut fabric for the pocket (16x24cm/6.3×9.5inch + seams + hem width (2.5cm/1inc)

Picture 4: fold the lining fabric this way = the 2 short sides have to be placed on top of each other. Sew the sides. Then after sewing the hem of the pocket, sew the pocket where you would like it to be. Make sure you sew it against the good side of the fabric (that’s the pretty side), NOT the wrong side of the fabric!

Picture 5: hold the lining like this (with the good side of the fabric on the inside)

Picture 6: make a horizontal line there. The distance from the point of the corner to the line needs to be HALF THE WIDTH OF THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG.

Picture 7: click on the picture to see the yellow line I made on the fabric. You want to sew on that line to create the corners. Do the same on the other side.

Picture 8: cut Eva foam the size of the bottom of the bag

Picture 9: pin the Eva foam in place in the bag

Picture 10: sew the Eva foam in place. Follow the lines of your crochet stitches so the hand stitching won’t be visible

Picture 11: should look like this now

Picture 12: sew the lining corners to the visible loops of that row of the inside of the bag


Picture 13: should look like this now

Picture 14: fold down 1cm (less than half an inch) of the lining to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the lining in place

Picture 15: sew the lining to the inside of the bag by hand and make sure your stitches are not visible on the outside

Click here if you need to ask something about the pattern. You can also contact me by clicking on the Whatsapp icon in the righthand corner of the screen.

Feel free to leave a reaction below. You can also post a picture of the bag you made with this pattern on social media. Feel free to tag me there. You may of course also post a picture of your bag in my Amigurumi Heaven Facebook group.

Sofie Julien Versluys
Sofie Julien Versluys

Was born in Belgium but moved to Indonesia as a child. Have been living here ever since. I absolutely LOVE crochet and knitting. I made this blog to help others get to the same level as me. And to make sure people have a place to come to with questions. Even the very beginner questions. Go ahead and ask me!

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